KYO Yuzen is made in Kyoto and has a gorgeous, opulent beauty.
In this issue, we talked to Ms. Manabe, a certified Kyoto craftswoman whose style is based on the beautiful use of colors and worldview, about the appeal of KYO Yuzen.
We will also explain the basics of KYO Yuzen and the work process in detail, so please read on to the end.
Interviewee Profile
Sachi Manabe
She became interested in yuzen when she was a student at the Faculty of Letters, and studied hand-drawn yuzen at the Kyoto City Dyeing Experiment Station.
After graduating from university, she studied under the yuzen artist Kihachiro Yoshida, and began creating her own works.
2009 Selected for "Invitation to Paradise" at the Japan Craft Association Kinki Branch Exhibition
2011 Japan New Craft Newcomer Encouragement Award for men's stylish kimono "Kemonode"
2018 The 6th Kyo-Mono Youth Competition Second Prize Japan Craft Association
2019 Established a Yuzen dyeing brand "Morphosphere".
She is exploring the use of Yuzen across cultures and generations so that people can feel familiar with Yuzen.
KYO Yuzen is a world of gorgeous colors.
What is KYO Yuzen?
KYO Yuzen is a traditional craft made in Kyoto using the Yuzen technique of creating patterns on dyed kimono.
It was designated as a traditional craft by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry in 1976.
The three major yuzen in Japan are KYO Yuzen, KAGA Yuzen, and TOKYO Yuzen. KYO Yuzen, born in Kyoto in the Genroku period (1688-1704), is the oldest traditional craft among the three major yuzen.
Itome glue is used to prevent dyeing, so that adjacent colors do not mix.
Many colors are used, and embroidery and gold and silver stays are applied, making it popular for its vivid colors and gorgeous, glittering kimonos.
What is the difference between KYO Yuzen and KAGA Yuzen?
There are many differences, the most typical of which is the difference in color. KAGA Yuzen is characterized by the use of glutinous rice glue, and recently many KYO Yuzen artists also use glutinous rice.
There is also a big difference between KYO Yuzen with and without gilding! My master's style was a mixture of KYO Yuzen and KAGA Yuzen, so while he had vermilion color and big flowers, which are characteristic of KYO Yuzen, he didn't have gilding.
Indeed, KYO Yuzen is gorgeous and opulent, while KAGA Yuzen is chic and calm.
You can also read more about KYO Yuzen in this article.
KAGA Yuzen
A traditional craft made mainly in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture.
It has a chic color palette based on the Kaga Gosai (five colors of Kaga): indigo, swallow fat, ochre, grass, and ancient purple.
This article provides a detailed explanation of KAGA Yuzen.
There are two kinds of KYO Yuzen!
KYO Yuzen can be roughly divided into two categories: Hand-painted Yuzen and Kata (Patterned) Yuzen.
Hand-painted Yuzen...Each pattern is colored by hand using a brush or brush.
Kata (Patterned) Yuzen: Made using a paper pattern, mass production is possible.
Ms. Manabe, you use Hand-painted Yuzen. You also arrange not only kimonos but also accessories and other small items, don't you?
Yes. The accessories are made to express the beauty of colors, and I am just particular about the colors.
I make them in a wide range of color patterns, so you can wear a different color for each season.
Are there any other products other than kimonos that you would like to try?
I also make card cases. I would also like to make other works that can be used as interior decorations, such as interior panels.
Brooch by KYO Yuzen
KYO Yuzen's brooch makes your heart dance with a little specialness.
Just by wearing this brooch, you can make your usual clothes feel a little more special. You can wear it on your hat, bag, etc. and arrange it to your liking.
Morphoshere
Card case by KYO Yuzen
Dainty and elegant KYO Yuzen card case
With its calm color and texture, it creates an elegant and mature appeal. You can show off your good taste by carrying it at parties and other occasions where you will be seen by many people.
Morphoshere
KYO Yuzen is a job with many processes and requires patience.
The process of Hand-painted Yuzen and Kata Yuzen is as follows.
Hand-painted Yuzen
Drafting: Drawing a design picture.
Draw a rough sketch: Make the fabric into the shape of the finished product, and draw a rough sketch after the temporary sewing.
Itome-gluing: Untie the temporary stitching and apply glue along the draft. (This glue acts as an anti-dyeing agent, so it does not mix with neighboring colors.
Grounding: Apply bean paste to the fabric. (This glue serves to prevent smearing and to fix the dye.
Insertion: Dye is inserted into the kimono by hand using a brush.
Steaming: Steaming in a high-temperature steamer for about one hour. Steaming: Steaming in a high-temperature steamer for about an hour (to fix the dye to the fabric).
Fuse glue: Apply glue to the pattern. (To prevent the dyed area from being dyed.)
Ground dyeing: Dyeing the ground color with a large brush. (This work requires experience and skill.)
Steaming: Steaming again in a steamer box.
Mizumoto: Wash off the glue and unnecessary dye with water.
Hot water treatment: Adjust the width of the fabric and remove wrinkles.
Decoration: Decorate the surface with gold or silver leaf, gold or silver thread.
Kata-Yuzen
Drawing: Drawing a design.
Making the mold: Carve the mold. (One mold is needed for each color, so make as many molds as there are colors to be used.
Ji Hari: Paste white fabric on a piece of wood with glue.
Kata-Oki: Place the mold on the fabric, put colored glue on it, and dye it. (If there are a lot of colors or patterns, the mold placement is repeated many times.
Glue down: Glue is placed on the dyed area of the mold. (To prevent dyeing)
Pull-dyeing: The ground color is dyed with a brush on the unglue-dyed area.
Steaming: Apply high temperature steam. (To fix the dyed color)
Mizumoto: Wash off with water so that the fallen dye does not adhere to the fabric.
Finishing process: Decorate the surface with gold or silver leaf, gold or silver thread. Correction of unevenness in dyeing.
Both Hand-painted Yuzen and Kata Yuzen have many work processes and are very difficult.In Kyoto, there seems to be a lot of division of labor, but do you also divide your labor?
In my case, I ask a contractor to do the steaming after dyeing, but other than that, I often do everything by myself.
Usually, I ask a specialized company to do the pressing, steaming, and mizumoto of the fabric. Experienced craftsmen who have been doing one process for decades have very high skills, so I use different ones depending on the product I want to make.
It's being made by many different people. It seems to take a lot of time.
Yes, KYO Yuzen takes a long time. In my case, it takes at least three months. I do counseling and work with the customer to determine the best way to make the product.
Counseling?
Yes! I believe that I can express the right atmosphere for the customer by creating the product with the customer's face in mind.
You have put a lot of thought into your customers. Are there any other hard work involved?
Dyeing to match the sewing opening and applying patterns based on the distortion of the sewing process are also hard work.
It's a job that requires a lot of patience.
Yes, it is. Also, I have to intersperse the drying time, so it's hard to concentrate on that day.
In my case, since I work alone, speed is also required.
Yes, it is. Also, I have to intersperse the drying time, so it's hard to concentrate on that day.
In my case, since I work alone, speed is also required.
The Morphosphere, the beauty of it all
Mr. Manabe, you have a brand called Morphosphere, don't you?
Yes, within Morphosphere, I deal in accessories, card cases, and various other items.
The word "Morphosphere" is unfamiliar to me, is it a coined word?
Yes, Morphosphere is a combination of the words Morpho (morpho butterfly) and sphere.
What is the meaning behind Morphosphere?
First of all, Morpho is the Morpho butterfly, a beautiful blue butterfly.
There is a word for something beautiful, 'Metamorphose,' and the Morpho butterfly is said to be the origin of the word Metamorphose. The Morpho butterfly is such a beautiful butterfly.
The word "sphere" also means "star" or "moon" in English. In other words, it means all things beautiful.
Morphosphere, a combination of these beautiful words, means a project that encompasses all things beautiful.
It's kind of nice. It fits perfectly with Ms. Manabe's brand of beautiful creations!
I believe that I have a mission to make beautiful things.
Morphosphere is a kind of statement of purpose for me.
A statement?
It represents my belief that I will spend the rest of my life making beautiful things.
It's also a sign of determination! Beautiful things, you say, but how do you find inspiration for your work?
My inspiration comes from books, paintings, haute couture dresses, movies, novels, and music. Especially with music, I imagine it as if I were writing illustrations.
That's amazing! What kind of work do you have in mind for Morphosphere in the future?
As an artist, I would like to face myself and create products that can express myself and become a symbol.
I'm looking forward to the future of Morphosphere!
Attracted by the Appeal of Color, I Entered the World of Yuzen
What made you want to enter the world of Yuzen?
I first entered the world of Yuzen when I was 19 years old. The first thing I did was to take a basic course at the Kyoto Dyeing Examination Center. At the time, the course was not open to everyone, so I pretended to be working part-time at the studio of a tie-dye artist friend of mine.
At first, I just thought, "Yuzen is beautiful".
When I hear the word "Dyeing," I have a strong image of kimonos. Did you always like kimonos?
In my case, I didn't start because I liked kimonos. The correct answer is that I was attracted to it as a technique. I like painting, and I thought "Yuzen is wonderful because of its special freedom of color and beauty" as one of the techniques of expression for oil painting and watercolor painting. As I continued, I wanted to be involved in it in earnest, and after graduating from university, I apprenticed myself to a master.
While your classmates were going on to higher education or finding jobs, your decision to pursue a career in traditional Japanese crafts was quite a courageous move.
I didn't think about anything else, I just went ahead with my passion. However, to be honest, there were times when I thought that I might have narrowed my path.
When did you do that?
Specifically, when I quit my master's workshop. Other times, I wondered whether or not I would be able to continue doing this. Many things happen in the world, such as the Lehman Shock and Corona, and each time I think about my future.
Dyeing requires a large work space, so it costs a lot to maintain the place. It's hard to change course to a different type of work, so I had a lot to worry about.
You have become the person you are today through your various struggles. Isn't that also the reason why you are able to create your works? You are also taking on challenges that would be unthinkable in the world of Yuzen, such as creating ceramic (tile) products.
I am challenging myself in many ways with different designs and methods of expression. For the tiles, I provide the design and the Mino Ware potter manufactures them. They are full of particulars, including a special method to get those beautiful colors!
Will you take on the challenge of developing new products in the future?
Will you take on the challenge of developing new products in the future?
I would like to make a butterfly kimono in the future. I have a lot of ideas that I have not been able to create yet, so I would like to make them a reality.
Ceramic tiles by KYO Yuzen
Ceramic tiles by KYO Yuzen that can be used freely
Since the pattern is also on the side of the tile, it is recommended to use it as a tableware like a small plate. The vivid colors will make your dining table all the more colorful. Of course, it is also perfect for displaying as interior decoration, so please find your own way to use it.
Morphoshere
Protecting the Unconventional KYO Yuzen
Are your works made in a traditional way?
Not completely, but it is orthodox.
What is your passion for KYO Yuzen?
As is typical of KYO Yuzen, I have added gold paint to enhance the pattern without disturbing it.
Also, I try not to get stuck in a rut by thinking about the colors as I paint.
Do you think about it while painting?
Do you think about it while painting?
Yes, I do. I don't make a lot of the same products, so it's important for me to keep things unconventional. I feel that if it becomes routine, it won't touch the heart.
So you make your products while thinking about your customers, in order to create products that resonate with them?
Yes! By thinking about the customer, I can bring out new charms and create a wonderful atmosphere.
It is also important for me to create a storyline in my work.
I would like to keep the tradition of KYO Yuzen and explore my own unique style.
Are there any new changes you are making to the KYO Yuzen technique?
Are there any new changes you are making to the KYO Yuzen technique?
I use wax to do the fuse-gluing necessary to prevent the dyeing of the pattern, because it saves the process and speeds up the process. I incorporate new things as needed.
Are you thinking of becoming a certified traditional craftsman?
Yes, I am. I still have to figure out how to bring my own style into it, but I would like to think about it.
You're taking on new challenges while preserving KYO Yuzen as a traditional craft! Lastly, please tell us about your future direction.
I would like to express my own unique colors and deepen the world of Yuzen.
I also want to keep animal motifs like Kemonode, but on the other hand, I'm interested in creating a steampunk world view.
I will also try to create works with a fantastic feminine worldview using the motif of butterflies, which is the origin of Morphosphere!
Summary
For this interview, we talked to Ms. Manabe, a KYO Yuzen artist.
In the traditional world of KYO Yuzen, Ms. Manabe strives to create works with colors that only she can express.
We look forward to seeing more of her work in the future!
Related articles:
▶ What is “Kyo Karakami”? Beautiful patterns created by woodblocks passed down for over 100 years
▶ A Guide to the Traditional Japanese Craft: Kyo-Sensu Fans
▶ The Complete Guide to Traditional Japanese Crafts
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The information in this article is accurate at the time of publication.